Finding My Way In Paris

I write this post in my free time while at the study abroad class in Cluny, France and drinking a glass of chardonnay. I have learned so much at this course that I think I will still be trying to catch up when I get back to NJ.

Paris was a spectacular city that is really a city of light and culture. To quote another study abroad student that I have met over here in France, “Paris gives you a flavor of what France is about, more so than can many European cities to their respective countries.” The Parisians are admittly quite rude and downright annoying at times, but there are an equal number of people that are really very wonderful. Those Parisians who are not rude are often welcoming and give a big smile and greet you when they walk into their restaurant or boutique. Others glare and grimace at you when they notice your accent.

The biggest give away that we were from out of town was our backpacks that screamed tourist. Apparently, backpacks mean that you are an American. The French way of carrying possessions around is in a cloth bag similar to a reusable shopping bag. The reason the bag is important is the role of bags in European shopping culture. European stores do not give shopping bags when you check out but expect you to carry your own bag. If you do ask for a bag from the establishment, they will charge you a steep fee. Frequently, I saw people twice a day with a few baguettes or pastries sticking out of the corner of a cloth bag hanging on one shoulder.

Our first dinner in Paris, I ate at a restaurant called Café Central on a pedestrian street, and the waitress listened patiently to our broken French and then taught us some of the words we lacked. It was quite amusing to be trying to ask for an expresso and find out that the word expresso is not commonly used; rather the word café or noissett is used instead. Then you must specify how large and whether or not you want milk; most French waiters and waitresses will deliver your coffee without milk unless you ask. I found myself craving coffee and wishing that I could just get a cup to go which is not the way of the French. Unfortunately for the impatient American who wants to just get onto the next sight or the next street, you are obliged to sit for at least 30 minutes and enjoy a coffee.

On our second day in Paris, I found one of the several Starbucks in Paris. The experience that you get in North America is lost on the Starbucks of France. For one example, they serve freshly squeezed orange juice for a premium price. They had a very fancy machine that slices and then positions the slices for an automatic pressing. A medium cup of this beverage called Jus Fraiche will run 4.50 €, which is about $7.00. People then do not frequently leave with there beverage but sit in the Starbucks drinking as they would in a café. A few days later we found another Starbucks, and the experience was the same but even more people could be found sitting at small 18” diameter tables watching the world go past.

The world of the Parisian is one that is explored on foot with food making up the principle of the day. I started my day at 9 AM and didn’t return until 10 PM. Among the challenges of being in a foreign country where coffee does not run in the veins of the people, the bathrooms are few and far between. Those bathrooms you do find are paid for and often cost 1 euro which is the equivalent of 1.60 dollars. The trick that we learned after a few days was to go to a café and drink a 1.30 euro coffee and use their bathroom which was not crowded with tourists. I think about this and write about this because I believe in being well hydrated, and I cannot express enough how frustrating it is to find a bathroom when you drank a liter of water in the last hour. In one park I found a gentleman peeing on a bush and still another man teaching his son to peak on an iron fence.

The big lessons I learned during my time in Paris are learn how to order coffee if you don’t like being surprised by your beverage, don’t carry a backpack or risk being profiled, and don’t drink to much water if you don’t want to pee in the park.

Class Routine—Biochemistry, Microbiology, a 2-hour lunch, and Medieval History (June 14th, 2011)

After my morning run through the town of Cluny, I was exhausted, but exhilarated. I ran the country route through the hills, the pastures, and went running into town. The smells of the early morning cafes and fresh bread let me almost taste the goodness! I showered and ran back to breakfast and warmly greeted by Madame (the woman who runs the hostel that we call madame) to a breakfast of fresh baguettes, jam, coffee, hot chocolate, and tea. After many cups of coffee, we were all off to class, which was next door in the hostel’s hall.
Today was the first full day of class in Cluny. We brushed up on biochemistry and microbiology so that everyone was on the same page. I can now wake up at 3 AM and tell you that fructose-1,6-bisphosphate is the intermediate the regulates glycolysis—in the EMP pathway thanks to Dr. Haggblom’s “why and how” discussion. Having a small class and learning by discussing really helped retain and learn the science. To recharge ourselves, we went out to lunch in Cluny to a local café. I had the most delicious pea and carrot soup with emmental cheese and garlic croutons with a glass of Macon rosé wine. Gastronomy and taking time to eat is a big part of the French culture. There is no such thing as “to go” here because everybody eats a proper lunch here and it considered vulgar to rush food. Local stores and shops close in between 12-2PM for a lunch break, while people flock at the local cafés even for just a cup of coffee. There is no such thing as coffee to go either! For dessert, we had espresso before heading back to class.
We spent the afternoon walking around Cluny for a history lesson with Dean Reinert. I had no idea that Cluny was the center of Christianity in medieval times. I also have a new appreciation for monks. In medieval times, the monks made the cheese and sometimes wine for the town—hence, towns started to grow around the monasteries. Under the Benedictine rule, the monks practiced poverty, chastity, and humility while working each day. Work and prayer was thought to lead to salvation. Before the French Revolution, Cluny was a grand monastery with old castle-like walls and towers. Some parts of the town have been restored, but a lot of it has to be imagined.
After class, everyone went out together to the market to gather food for tomorrow’s excursion to a vinery and goat farm. We bought a variety of cheeses, meats, fruits, and wine to have a grand picnic by the lake. The picnic would be part of our usual 2-hour lunch of course. As usual, pictures are below:

Class

Daily Breakfast

Our first day of class

The 13th was our first full day in of class in Cluny and it was a rough one! I've never been to Europe before, and the six hour time difference here from the east coast of the US is a killer. Here in Cluny were six hours ahead of the east coast so when you wake up at 8am it feels like 2am. We woke up bright and early so that we could get breakfast at the hostel before our class that started at 9 o'clock, but breakfast for the french is far from what were used to. When you think of complimentary breakfast at a hotel you might think of sausage links, eggs, bacon, muffins, bagels, maybe a waffle iron, some yogurt, etc. Breakfast in France is baguette with butter and jam and to drink you get coffee or tea and I have to say that it's going to take some getting used to because by 10 o'clock my stomach was growling!

So, with all that in mind, the first full day of talking about fermentation pathways and microbial activity was a little difficult. But, one good thing about France is that lunch is two hours long. I think we have breakfast figured out pretty well, but two hour lunches are awesome. During lunchtime everyone shuts down their businesses except restaurants, of course. All the little shops, the post office, the banks, everyone takes off and goes out to eat for lunch. So from twelve to two we joined the people of Cluny by going out to a cafe where we ate lunch outside in the beautiful weather and enjoyed the atmosphere of the quaint little town. The townspeople are all familiar with one another, so when we come along speaking English and probably acting very strangely in their eyes we get some odd looks. I'm certainly not used to being looked at like that so often, but I'm sure it won't be the last time, so I might as well get used to it for a while.

After lunch we continued with our class on microbiology and biochemistry until it was time for us to take a historical tour of the town with another one of our professors, Dr. Reinert. Professor Reinert led us on a tour of Cluny where we visited its important monuments and attractions and learned some history about them. I thought that the most interesting part of the tour was about the abbey of Cluny. Built in 910, and at its height of power in the mid 12th century, the abbey was once magnificent, but today much of it has been destroyed. During the French Revolution all religious orders were dissolved and forced to leave their respective monasteries and churches. At the time of the revolution there were only ten monks left in the abbey of Cluny, but still, the loss of what was once a great monastery is a shame. After the tour wrapped up we were left to go about as we pleased for the first time and explore the town to our heart's desire. Here are some pictures from the days adventures:

That night, all of us climbed to the top of Cluny and sat on the wall watching the sunset over the beautiful Burgundian countryside. It was a beautiful sight and unfortunately I forgot my camera, but it's a memory that I doubt I'll forget, with or without a picture.

Mission of Efficiency

Fun Fact: Did you know that Singapore is less than 25% the area of Rhode Island per sq. mi., yet there are 5 Singaporean people for every 1 Rhode Islander? In essence, Singapore's population is over 20x more concentrated per sq. mi. than Rhode Island.

Imagine Rutgers being 20x more populated with college students (not that it's possible, this is just a comparison)--that would tally to about 800,000 students just in New Brunswick alone! Now imagine trying to catch the college busses while being bombarded by a mass of people trying to catch that same bus. I'd rather walk from Cook to Busch, thank you.

Singapore's population is so high that most people depend on public transportation to get anywhere on time, but is it a nightmare to catch a bus or a train? Actually, no. Singapore is pushing for incentives to make public transportation more efficient while reducing traffic and air pollution. The trains and busses run every 2 to 8 minutes so they are never overcrowded (though it can get packed at times), and even if you do miss the bus or train, there is always another mode of transport that will easily take you to your destination. Considering that I depend on this mode of transport to go to and from work, this reliability is definately a plus!! And I can explore the zoos and parks on the other side of town, so it's great. I honestly think this is the neatest thing. I love travelling, but actually finding a way to get to where I want to go ends up being the biggest hurdle. If this system were in America, I can probably go from Maine to Cailfornia with ease, though it may take a couple of weeks but I'm up for it! Singapore has the advantage of being a small country you can pretty much catch a bus in almost every nook and cranny of this island.

Developing ways to house all of the people here is a feat in itself. Here, most people live in apartments because they are the least expensive routes for housing. Small bungalows and townhouses can easily cost millions of dollars due to space constraints so that is out of the question! Instead, what you can find are apartment buildings everywhere. The buildings are very colorful, but it is definately a shock to see so many high rises considering that I come from American suburbia. I'm currently living in the blue one!



This mode of efficiency has even crossed into my laboratory. There are well over 20 people in my lab room each working on his or her own project (the most people I have ever seen) all focused on producing glycerol through bioprocessing algae and bacteria. We all share the same equipment, yet there is a harmonious balance between the high volume of people and the work that gets done. As of now, I am currently working on two separate projects to increase the efficiency (ironic) of glycerol production in algae. As of now, I am focused on manipulating the salt concentration of the algae media to determine if an increase in osmotic pressure will correlate to an increase in excreted glycerol from the algae cells. It turns out that glycerol has many pharmaceutical uses and can also be processed for use as biofuel--i.e. lower our dependence on fossil fuels so this is good news. There is at least one other student who is responsible for the experiments I run and I am responsible for another student's experiment. On top of that, there is a gradaute student supervisor and a PhD supervisor that makes sure we are all on track. It all seemed so chaotic when I first started but now that I have been working there for over two weeks, I have adjusted to the Singapore speed.

I will give you updates on my June 17 birthday and weekend adventures soon!

Land of Delicious Molds and Bacteria (June 13th, 2011)

Greetings from Cluny! The day started off with meeting the group under the clock-tower of Gare de Lyon train station in Paris. The week before the meeting, I had stopped at Gare de Lyon train station, so I thought I knew where I was going. However, I used the metro system in Paris and had only seen this station from the inside, and the clock-tower was outside. To make things complicated, there were several entrances to the outside of the station, depending on the subway line and the part of town that can be accessed. Finally, after walking circles outside the perimeter of the station, I found everyone. We boarded the TGV train to Macon-Loche and then took a bus to the town of Cluny.

We are staying at Cluny Sejour—a hostel that was once the candle-making building in Cluny. This is because Cluny was a grand monastery before the French revolution. The building now that it is renovated to a hostel looks like a replica of a typical dorm. There are two or three beds per room, and there is a common bathroom on each floor. Because we are in Cluny, the hostel also has views of the old monastery walls and towers. There is an engineering college across the hostel in a grand building (also converted from the monastery) and the students all wear robes depending on their year. I never thought I would see a school just like Hogwarts in real life!

After arriving in Cluny, we were warmly welcomed with a wine and cheese tasting at the town’s wine shop. We learned by tasting the burgundy region’s local wines and cheeses as defined by the AOC. The AOC, or the Appellation Controlle Origine, is a regulatory committee that preserves local goods [such as cheese and wine] to each region in France by labeling the product “AOC”. For example, Champagne can only be produced in Champagne, France—otherwise it is only sparkling wine if made elsewhere. I absolutely love this system because it preserves patrimone—or heritage, of each region and keeps the economy going. Maconnais goat cheeses are AOC to the Bourgone, or Burgundy region of France. Similarly, the Burgundian wines are made from the regions grapes of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The wines would not be called pinot noir or chardonnay—they would instead be named after the AOC region from where they were made. This is because they terroir—or terrain of each region is different, and thus results in a different wine.

Anyhow, I’m heading off to bed soon. Earlier in the evening, I went on a run through the countryside to burn off the cheese and I’ve concluded that the town of Cluny is also a runner’s paradise. There are gradual hills, steep hills, beautiful pastures filled with sheep, goats, cows, and of course—the vineyards. This is such a scenic town. Everyone in town seems to know everyone living here, and the community feeling is strong. I can’t wait to go on my early morning run tomorrow and smell the boulangerie’s fresh baguettes! Bonsoir! Bon nuit!

Everyone minus Dr. Haggblom (who took the picture) at Gare de Lyon train station

Housing at the Cluny Sejour Hostel

Walking up to our first wine and cheese tasting

Pastures

Day 3 In Pari-Finally Settling In

France 2011 Day 3

France 2011 Day 3- Finally achieving the Louvre, no art pictures here because they still have to be cropped and straightened.

Nous sommes arrives!

Finally, the big day, June 12th, and time for me go on my first trip to Europe. Not only is this my first trip to Europe, but it's the first trip that I've ever gone on alone as well. So, after my parents dropped me off at the airport and gave me a hug I was on my own. One red eye flight and 20 hours of transit later I arrived and somehow didn't make any mistakes in the process. Surprising, right? I thought it was. Luckily I had my French skills to help me navigate from the airport and bus stop to the Gare de Lyon, where I would meet the whole class and then travel to Cluny.

I had already met most of my classmates before this point, but it was as if we were actually meeting for the first time at this train station in France. Once everyone had arrived we traveled together to our final destination, Cluny, via a two hour ride on the TGV (the European bullet train system) and then an hour bus ride. When we arrived in Cluny it seemed as if I had stepped out of the 21st century and back into the medieval ages. Where we're staying now is literally 50 feet away from what was once the center of Christianity in the 11th and 12th century. The town of Vitry-les-Cluny is dominated by an abbey that was constructed in the medieval ages and then became the largest monastery in all of the Europe at the height of its power.

Growing up in New Jersey I've never experienced something with such an old and rich heritage as Cluny. It's amazing to be able to reach out and touch something that's older than America itself, let alone something that's almost a thousand years older than America. Although Cluny has a very large medieval influence it still contains the French culture that we all imagine when thinking of France. With bakeries, cafes, and wine shops galore, and roads that are only wide enough for one car, Cluny is a very intimate European town.

For our first night in Cluny we went to one of the town's wine shops that was expecting us for a wine and cheese tasting. Wait, what? Aren't you supposed to be studying microbiology, Scott? Hold on, there's more. Also attending this tasting was the mayor of Cluny, who was actually a very friendly and genial frenchman. So, we started the tasting, mayor included, and tasted the wines of the region, which are Chardonnay, Pinor Noir, and Gammé. And of course, everything was absolutely delicious. The four different types of cheeses, two salamis and baguette were amazing, especially washed down with a sip of some Burgundian wine.

It was an amazing first day in Cluny, and I can't wait to see what it has in store for me tomorrow.