Saturday, June 18, 2011
Departure and Arrival?
Aside from the rough time actually getting here, the place is BEAUTIFUL and the restaurant in the airport, I think it was the Hungry Horse(?) makes a mean jerked anything sandwich. :) I'm pretty sure you all would be jealous of me right now, as I type this entry with the sounds of the ocean outside the screen door. Seriously, the deck outside the door is right on the beach. I want to type more but the mosquitoes are really all over and I am beyond jet lagged!
(First day in the water is tomorrow! I'll have to let you know how that goes...)
Who stays at home on a Saturday morning?-Farmer’s Market (June 18th, 2011)
As a class, we met Dr. Healy and Dr. Haggblom at the farmer’s market a few hours later. We split into groups and went out shopping. Below are pictures from today.
Later on that night, we went out for dinner as a group. Some of us tried escargot (snails) for the first time. Dr. Max claims that it is a good excuse to eat delicious garlic, butter, and parsley. I dipped my bread into the sauce and it was delicious indeed!
Farmer's Market Goods
Dinner!
Friday, June 17, 2011
Religion+Science=Great Cheese?! (June 17th, 2011)
After the milk is gathered from the cows, the cheese is made in a series of steps. We were lucky enough to be invited INSIDE the actual cheesemaking factory itself! They take a big risk in cheese fermentation by allowing any outside flora to enter the factory, so I really appreciate this privilege. Anyhow, back to the cheesemaking….The cows are milked in the morning, the milk is then heated to a higher and lower temperatures as two starter cultures of LAB (lactic acid bacteria) cultured exclusively in a BL3 facility (for maximum care) are added into the milk to outcompete any pathogenic bacteria. After the starter cultures, the rennet is added to the milk to coagulate the curd. This curd is then cut many times and pressed over so that the whey drains out. After the whey drains out, the curd is salted and pressed into molds. The molds are then stored and washed daily in separate, isolated room of the factory as they age. After production, the machines and the factory utensils are washed thoroughly. Each brother of the monastery helps out in each of the cheese-making steps and the whole production is made by a community.
The Montbeliarde Cows:
Cheesemaking
Regarding Landscape Architecture
or worse, something you associate with mowing lawns. Landscape Architecture
is a discipline, that, as one of my professors would describe it, as an exploration
in space. Space, in the way that we shape the space around us and we define the feeling
you experience as you interact with it. Now thats a bit esoteric and "spacey" in and of itself.
So really, landscape architects deal with problems on varying scales, from the private residence to large scale city planning and even to regional redevopment. And we deal with problems like sustainability, environmental footprint, storm water management, horticulture, construction detailing, project management and countless other things.
As Landscape Architects, it is important that we see as many works as possible to familiarize ourselves with different solutions to problems as they present themselves. By seeing as many parks, city scapes, and natural areas, we become better acquianted with how things work, and more importantly what actually works and what doesn't.
By knowing these things we are better conditioned to making spaces that people will be able use and enjoy while at the same
time contributing to the local ecology.
This trip to Germany is very important in that it provides me with the opportunity to see things that I would never would have had otherwise. To see a place and people that are different from those that I see on a regular basis. And ultimately to further my design education.
The Abbey of Citeaux
After seeing the inner workings of the cheese factory, we went outside and got to the real beginning of the cheese, the milk. We walked into a large barn that housed in the area of a hundred cows that were feeding when we arrived. The cows were all the same type of cow, the Montbelier, which over time has proven to the brothers of Citeaux to make the best milk for making their cheese. We met the herdsman in charge of the monastery's herd and learned all about the life cycle of one of these Montbelier cows. While they were at the monastery they each produced around 30 kilos of milk per day for cheese production, and those who didn't were sold into surrounding herds. Those who got to be too old were sold for meat, which seems to be the fate of every cow in the area at the end of their lives. I thought this was very interesting, but at least they don't waste anything, right?
Brother Rafael on the left translating, and the herdsman in the center explaining the role of their herd in cheesemaking.
When we left the herd we explored the more scenic parts of the monastery and had a picnic on the grounds, which was even better than the last picnic we had two days before (which previously was the best picnic I've ever attended). After lunch and a nap under some of the trees at the abbey we took a guided tour of the older buildings like the library and dormitory which had been reconstructed. The life of a monk was quite dull, and still is in this modern age. They wake up at 3am, study old texts, pray, make cheese, have lunch, pray, work some more, pray, and then it's bedtime by 8 o'clock. I know that there's no way I could do that day in and day out, but some of the brothers didn't join the monastery until they were about 40 years old! I find that incredible because they had to have experienced modern life, and willingly giving yourself to something like a life of chastity, poverty, and humility after that is unheard of.
Again we found ourselves driving through the countryside on the way to another cheese tasting, life is just so difficult these days... haha. The next fromagerie, or cheese factory was much more modern and had been designed with tourists in mind. The whole cheese production area could be viewed from the large glass windows that give you a great view of the cheesemaking in action. Also, this fromagerie had a video explaining the various parts of the cheese making process in French, English, and German. I find it interesting that here in France agritourism is a huge part of their business, just as it is in the US. Today was the most hands-on day with cheese making that we've had so far and it was very interesting to see the cheese making process come to life in front of me.
Our cheese tasting
The way home was filled with chateaux and beautiful terroirs that we were almost too tired to appreciate! Imagine that! Hahah, but there's no time for sleep here in Cluny, were about to go hit the town in what is sure to be another exciting night. À bientot mes amis!
Singapore is like home
By this I mean, now when I wake up every morning I am not startled by the heat, I nod my head in recognition to the security guard for our apartment, I don’t notice curious eyes watching me on the train, I’m becoming more familiar with my lab…
It is like I used to wake up and say “Wow I am in Singapore today” and now I just wake up. I do not mean this to imply that I am ungrateful for my opportunity or that I am bored of the country. Rather, that this country is feeling like home.
There are some parts of this like home (Singapore) that I do like. Most mornings outside my window there is a bird, about the size of a crow, covered in goldenrod feathers, that makes a melodious whistle chirp.
Occasionally, I will find a land snail too. I watched one yesterday for about five minutes, I think it was eating ants and personally I feel like it wasn’t moving all that slow.
Last Sunday, walking home from church, I was excited because I thought I found a large sea shell on the grass (the big spirally ones that are always broken at the beach). When I picked it up, it was a giant snail! No lie, the size of your thumb to your pinky finger!
We also have geckos. Our first gecko in the apartment I named Scottsdale (previously Elias named a gecko Winfield, so now I feel that all geckos should have very proper names) but Scottsdale moved out. Then yesterday, I found a new buddy about two inches big. He wiggled under the counter when I tried to catch him. I think these geckos are nocturnal because they have almost translucent skin.
I am glad that Singapore is a like home. In addition to my unique research experience, I wanted this trip to serve as a test run for real life. I am away from home, am working full time, am supporting myself (with help from Rutgers, thank you so much again), and am responsible for figuring out what to do with myself when I am off work.
The reason why Singapore is a like home and not my actual home (ahem the United States of America, god bless) is because of some of the things Singapore lacks.
This past Sunday after a hike in the rainforest, Dibyo mentioned how it would be nice to have a slice of pizza. Like a disease, the thought infected the entire group. PIZZA! I’ve never had a desire to have pizza back home-but that Sunday I needed to have pizza. We scoped out the entire strip of restaurants near the nature preserve and disappointedly settled for Indian food (it was delicious, but it was not pizza).
The next day, Elias and I were grocery shopping at the mall (the malls here have complete grocery stores) and we found a place that served pizza!! We ordered a $13 pie for the both of us. Unfortunately, the waiter lied to us because the $13 pie was not meant for more than one person-or maybe not meant for more than one American. So after eating there we went to Burger King for fries (we did that with extreme pride).
The following day I made spaghetti and poured Prego tomato sauce on top. It was so delicious; I can’t even begin to explain it. The sauce was no where near what my mom makes at home- but the taste was so familiar and different than everything I had eaten for the past two weeks. Its also one of the cheapest things I can eat here (6 meals of spaghetti costs me $0.80 and I bought a big jar of sauce for $3.50-they were on sale =] ) so I will be having that more often.
This week, I’ve also had a little bit of reverse culture shock. A friend at work asked me if I go out a drink a lot and then said “It would be interesting to see how you dance.” One of our apartment mates (French Masters student, born in Columbia, who speaks fluent English, French, and Spanish, conversant in Italian, and is so excited to be taking Chinese classes-yeah I like her a lot) said that when she heard she would be living with Americans she expected that we would be partying every night. Now, I got the moves-but how different are they than Singaporean moves? I guess there is a stereotype that Americans are just party revelers (GRE word-I’ve been studying instead of partying).
Two people gave me the inkling that Americans like to party. But, two other Singaporeans gave a little old state university in New Jersey- maybe you have heard of it? Rutgers -some serious ups. One person said she recognized the name from all the research articles that she has read. The other was really excited. “Rutgers! Isn’t that an Ivy League school?” It settles it for me, Rutgers has some serious science clout as its prestige has carried its name all the way to Singapore.
The weekend will be rolling in soon-they are always very busy but extremely exciting. We are planning to go to an island offshore from Singapore that is a little less developed to get some more nature time in.
From like home to home with love
=]
Thursday, June 16, 2011
Pretoria June 11-16th
“This is all nothing but miserable stammering. I do not know what Africa is really saying to me, but it speaks.” –C G Jung, in a letter to his wife in 1920
My first week showed me just how true that is. The first week was spent at a wonderful guest house in Pretoria, called Kniff un Gaffel (if you ever go to Pretoria, stay there!). The owners there are marvelous; every meal is eaten together like a family so you meet everyone staying there. Ron, the owner's son, even took some of us out to a local square and taught us sokkie. Sokkie is a social ballroom dance that most people learn growing up; it's called sokkie, meaning “sock” in Afrikaans, because it is done in socks. It was a much different scene than something you'd see at a bar in the US. A lot of the music was familiar except for a few songs; those unfamiliar tunes seemed patriotic. The first night I was there, Steffi, who became a good friend, decided to make Shakira’s Waka Waka (the African version) our theme song for the next three weeks. The next day the rest of the girls arrived and our 22 day adventure began.
We were a group of thirteen girls: ten from the US, one from Canada, and two from Trinidad and Tobago. We met our guides Morne and Jaco (Ya-ku) and first laid eyes on, Jezebel, our bus; we had our first dinner and started to get to know each other. Our first day brought us to the University of Pretoria and the Onderstepoort campus, which is home to the only veterinary school in South Africa. The university was very impressive, and the vet school had amazing facilities. Unfortunately, it is a seven year program; once I found that out, I immediately changed my mind on applying there.
Back at the guest house, our 7 am breakfasts and 7 pm dinners were consumed with gusto. Our last breakfast at the guest house was a bit interesting though, we were served eggs and fish sticks; even our guides were a bit confused.
We loaded up Jezebel and set off toward Horseback Africa where we would get the chance to play with some lions! When we arrived we were given a second breakfast with the rundown of the facility; it is home to lions of all ages, and there are plans of introducing disease free lions into game ranches. Kruger Park’s lions have Feline AIDS and Tuberculosis which impede on the lion population. We went on a walk with some of the 7 month old cubs where we got to hold their tails and watch them play. They wrestled and climbed trees as if they were rowdy cubs in a Disney movie. We were warned of the “McDonald look” that they give when sizing up a target; their eyes get big and round and they stare hard. Apparently, a bop on the head is enough to tell them no, but if a lion's looking at me like its next meal, I’m not so sure that defense would even cross my mind. After the walk we migrated to a big enclosure where the rest of the older lions were and watched them tear apart pieces of a carcass. Next, we observed 12 week old cubs; we gave them belly rubs and played with sticks while their lunch was being prepared. They each received a bowl with milk and meat to help transition their bellies into growing up. At one point the runt was being bullied and ended up sharing his food--poor little guy. Finally, the cutest of them all, at 3 weeks old! There were two, a boy and a girl; I liked to call them Simba and Nala :). We bottle fed them and burped them and rubbed their bellies until they were bored. When you gave them their bottle they would reach up and try to grab your arm, it was adorable.
Back onto the bus we went, filled with giggles from all the adorable-ness we just experienced. We were on our way to Imbambala in the Loskop Nature Reserve. First, we had to stop at a food store to stock up on breakfast goods for the weekend; this is where the trip went sour. A half an hour passed while in Groblersdal and when we returned to the bus we found a broken window. Our bus was broken into and things were stolen. Out of 13 backpacks, 3 were gone. Since we were moving out of the guest house we had everything in our bags: journals, childhood friends, cameras with pictures, money, credit cards. By the end of our police report we found that the thief had taken over $6,000 worth of personal belongings between the electronics, medications, and documents (yes, two passports). The guides told us to leave our things so that we were not targets in the store, little did we realize that the bus (a giant safari bus) was to be left unsupervised, a target in itself. It was a long and emotional bus ride to Imbambala with cardboard over the broken window. Africa lost a bit of its charm.
Going from Paris to Aix en Provence
Wednesday, June 15, 2011
Exploring Oaxaca
As of today, I have spent a full week in Oaxaca, Oaxaca. I must say that I am highly impressed with the culture, atmosphere, history, and overall experience in this Mexican state. The first few days I experienced a culture shock because everyone I interact with (from my home-stay family to the staff at the health clinic) speaks only Spanish. After a few days of feeling discouraged, I realized I have an option of continuing to pity my Spanish skills or to accept the challenge and go outside my comfort zone to learn as much as I can. I indeed chose to take on this challenge and my Spanish is getting better with each day.
The Mexican state of Oaxaca is nothing less than beautiful. The people here are extremely friendly and always have time for conversation with a stranger. In the city of Oaxaca, the streets are setup like a grid. This makes it easy to navigate around the city. I already explored various restaurants throughout the city and still have many more to go to. I live about 15 minutes from the Zocalo which a popular plaza located in the center of the city. What I like most about the Zocalo is that any day of the week you will find families and individuals sitting down enjoying the scene. It captures the very essence of the culture in which they take time to appreciate life for what it’s worth. In the United States we are often caught up in the hustle and bustle of trying to get to the top that we often forget to appreciate the beauty of the world around us. We neglect the simple things in life which sometimes hold the solutions to our problems.
We got the chance to explore the history of Oaxaca. Last weekend I participated in a field trip to Monte Alban, an archaeological site that has history dating back to 500 BC. It was an amazing feeling to climb the stones of pyramids of one of the first major cities in Mesoamerica. The elevation of the site is about 6,400 feet making the air thinner and the sun hotter. This provided a great defense location for the Zapotec civilization, the indigenous occupants of the land.
I am looking forward to the adventures that lie ahead.
A different language is a different vision of life. ~Federico Fellini
Little Maconnais Goats (cheese) and Delicate Wines (June 15th, 2011)
We also had a wine tasting at the same vineyard and learned to actually spit out the wine into a bucket (see picture below).
Our picnic was also at the same vineyard by the water. We had fresh baguettes, cheeses, meats, fruits, macarons, and savory wines. Look below at the pictures to appreciate the food! I will miss having casual 2-hour lunches when I leave France.
Following the picnic, we went to a local Maconnais cheesemaker where we met the goats, the kids, and finally the delicious cheese! Most cheese in France is made from raw milk unlike the US pasteurized milk. Unpasteurized cheese are safe to eat locally since they have the friendly LAB (lactic acid bacteria—same bacteria referred to as probiotic cultures) and outcompete pathogenic bacteria since the LAB are the dominant fermenters. We tasted fresh cheeses with tiny spots of Penicillium mold as well as older entirely moldy goat cheeses. I have to say that the Penicillium [naturally occurring fungus] offers the most flavors, and hence I love old stinky cheeses. The cheese was made by mixing morning and evening goat milk with a bit of old whey as the starter culture. Whey is the precipitated solution of water, lactose, bacteria, salts, and whey protein. Whey proteins and supplements are widely used as a health shake or protein powder. Cheese, similarly to wine, is able to be very efficient since all parts of the production can be put to more use.
Below are some pictures of goats and vineyards
This little goat thought my shirt was tasty:
The Maconnais Goat Cheese
The Cheese-molds
Cheese Tasting
Maconnais Vineyards and Wine Production (with our usual wine tasting of course)
Wine tasting and the bucket